I recently performed an appraisal for an estate that contained a large collection of books, many of which were quite old and some of which were valuable.
Unfortunately, most of the books have not been stored properly. Some of them were stored in acid containing cardboard boxes in a relatively damp warehouse. Others were packed too tightly on bookshelves. Still others were stored in close proximity to heating ducts.
I thought you might first be interested in some of the characteristics an appraiser considers in valuing books. Here are a few:
• Publisher
• Edition
• Illustrator
• Material
• Condition
• Publication date
This time we’ll talk about condition, how it’s determined and what can be done to properly care for a book. Next time we’ll discuss how you can determine a book’s edition number.
Here’s a list of terms used in describing book condition:
• AS NEW, MINT and FINE: A book in the same immaculate condition as when it was published. There can be no tears, no library stamps and the dust jacket, if it was issued, must be perfect.
• NEAR FINE: A book approaching FINE but with minor defects, which must be noted.
• VERY GOOD: A used book showing some small signs of wear, but with no tears. Defects must be noted.
• GOOD: The average used and worn book with all its pages present. Defects must be noted.
• FAIR: Worn book with complete text pages, but may lack endpapers, half-title page. Binding and jacket if present may be worn. Again, defects must be noted.
• POOR: A book so worn that its only value is as a reading copy, because it does have the complete text. May be soiled, scuffed, stained or spotted with loose joints, hinges and pages.
• EX-LIBRARY: Must always be noted as such no matter what the condition
• BOOK CLUB: Editions must always be noted as such no matter the condition
• BINDING COPY: A book in which pages or leaves are complete, but the binding is very bad, loose or off.
As for caring for old books: here are some dos and don’ts.
Click the Read More below for the rest of the article.
• Books are composed or organic material like paper, cloth and paste and so they’re vulnerable to environmental damage. To protect them from possible damage:
o Don’t expose your books to excessive amounts of light, either natural or fluorescent.
o Books should not be exposed to rapid changes or extremes of temperature and humidity.
o Try not to put your bookshelves against outside walls where temperatures and humidity can vary more widely.
o An ideal temperature to protect books is 70 degrees F. and ideal humidity is 50 per cent.
• Shelving conditions are important:
o Books should stand vertically on shelves and be firmly supported. When books lean it puts pressure on the book structure and the spine can suffer damage.
o If you use bookends, they should be smooth to avoid damaging the book’s cover.
o Store books an inch or so back from the edge of the shelf, but don’t push them all the way against the back. With some room on the edge, you’ll be able to see evidence of insect damage.
• Storing books also requires special care:
o Don’t wrap the books in common household plastic which will emit gases that degrade the books.
o Don’t store books in garages, basements, attics or storage warehouses that are not climate controlled.
o Use boxes made from alkaline corrugated cardboard available from conservation supply companies.
• Handing your old books:
o Wash your hands first. Body oils can accumulate over time.
o Don’t pull a book off the shelf by its headcap, or the top of the binding. This can cause it to break.
o Use care to not drop your books.
o Don’t press a valuable book flat to make copies of its pages. This can damage the binding.
o When working around old books, don’t have a ball point or felt tip pen in your hand. Use pencil.
o Use only paper bookmarks. Metal or leather can tear or stain the pages.
o Don’t oil leather book bindings.
Thanks to the American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works for these tips. You can visit them online at www.conservation-us.org for more detailed information.
Unfortunately, most of the books have not been stored properly. Some of them were stored in acid containing cardboard boxes in a relatively damp warehouse. Others were packed too tightly on bookshelves. Still others were stored in close proximity to heating ducts.
I thought you might first be interested in some of the characteristics an appraiser considers in valuing books. Here are a few:
• Publisher
• Edition
• Illustrator
• Material
• Condition
• Publication date
This time we’ll talk about condition, how it’s determined and what can be done to properly care for a book. Next time we’ll discuss how you can determine a book’s edition number.
Here’s a list of terms used in describing book condition:
• AS NEW, MINT and FINE: A book in the same immaculate condition as when it was published. There can be no tears, no library stamps and the dust jacket, if it was issued, must be perfect.
• NEAR FINE: A book approaching FINE but with minor defects, which must be noted.
• VERY GOOD: A used book showing some small signs of wear, but with no tears. Defects must be noted.
• GOOD: The average used and worn book with all its pages present. Defects must be noted.
• FAIR: Worn book with complete text pages, but may lack endpapers, half-title page. Binding and jacket if present may be worn. Again, defects must be noted.
• POOR: A book so worn that its only value is as a reading copy, because it does have the complete text. May be soiled, scuffed, stained or spotted with loose joints, hinges and pages.
• EX-LIBRARY: Must always be noted as such no matter what the condition
• BOOK CLUB: Editions must always be noted as such no matter the condition
• BINDING COPY: A book in which pages or leaves are complete, but the binding is very bad, loose or off.
As for caring for old books: here are some dos and don’ts.
Click the Read More below for the rest of the article.
• Books are composed or organic material like paper, cloth and paste and so they’re vulnerable to environmental damage. To protect them from possible damage:
o Don’t expose your books to excessive amounts of light, either natural or fluorescent.
o Books should not be exposed to rapid changes or extremes of temperature and humidity.
o Try not to put your bookshelves against outside walls where temperatures and humidity can vary more widely.
o An ideal temperature to protect books is 70 degrees F. and ideal humidity is 50 per cent.
• Shelving conditions are important:
o Books should stand vertically on shelves and be firmly supported. When books lean it puts pressure on the book structure and the spine can suffer damage.
o If you use bookends, they should be smooth to avoid damaging the book’s cover.
o Store books an inch or so back from the edge of the shelf, but don’t push them all the way against the back. With some room on the edge, you’ll be able to see evidence of insect damage.
• Storing books also requires special care:
o Don’t wrap the books in common household plastic which will emit gases that degrade the books.
o Don’t store books in garages, basements, attics or storage warehouses that are not climate controlled.
o Use boxes made from alkaline corrugated cardboard available from conservation supply companies.
• Handing your old books:
o Wash your hands first. Body oils can accumulate over time.
o Don’t pull a book off the shelf by its headcap, or the top of the binding. This can cause it to break.
o Use care to not drop your books.
o Don’t press a valuable book flat to make copies of its pages. This can damage the binding.
o When working around old books, don’t have a ball point or felt tip pen in your hand. Use pencil.
o Use only paper bookmarks. Metal or leather can tear or stain the pages.
o Don’t oil leather book bindings.
Thanks to the American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works for these tips. You can visit them online at www.conservation-us.org for more detailed information.
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